Symptoms of Ich
Small, white spots across the fish’s body.
Gasping, or struggling during respiration.
Clamped fins and/or sluggish behavior.
Loss of appetite.
Causes of Ich
Ich is present in most if not all aquariums. It becomes visible and attacks fish when ideal conditions occur for it.
Poor water quality: Too much waste in the tank; overstocked.
Stressed or unhealthy fish.
What is Ich?
Ich, sometimes called Ick, is one of the most common disorders that occurs in aquarium fishes, and fortunately, it is also one of the most easily treated. The white spots you see across your fish’s body are actually protozoa (unicellular microorganisms) that drill their way into the fish. Your fish becomes the host for the remaining life cycle of these parasitic protozoans. There are a number of varieties of Ich, the most common being Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, which will be the basis for treatment in this article.
The Life Cycle of Ich
To better understand the treatment of Ich, knowledge of its life cycle and development is necessary.
The adult phase of Ich occurs when the parasite is visible on the fish’s surface. The white spots may also occur in less visible areas; within the gills inhibiting the fish’s ability to breathe. Other signs of irritation may occur during this phase. Your fish may be restless, rub or flash against objects in the aquarium, and develop slight irritations of the skin. During this phase, Ich feeds on the blood of its host. Within days, it detaches and falls to the bottom of the aquarium to commence reproduction.
After falling to the bottom, the cyst phase begins. A rapid reproduction of cells occurs resulting in a great number of potential Ich protozoa.
The final phase, the free swimming phase, is when the thousand or more new parasites begin their search for a host. If a host isn’t found, they soon die. But, in a stocked aquarium, hosts are free for the picking in a compromised tank. This leads to a new cycle of Ich. For this reason, a healthy aquarium must be kept and treatment must occur.
Treatment of Ich
Increasing the temperature of the aquarium to at least 80-82 degrees Fahrenheit (27C) is advised because it greatly increases the life cycle to the stage that Ich is easily treated.
Commercial treatments: Malachite green or methylene blue are often the primary ingredients in commercial chemicals for treating Ich. Copper is also affective and common. These chemicals aid in the suffocation of the parasite and must be used for the entire suggested time of treatment, even when spots are no longer visible. Coppersafe, Quick Cure, and Ich Ease are commonly found and recommended treatments.
Non-commercial treatments: In any case of treating Ich, it is imperative to increase the tank temperature to 80 or more degrees. To treat Ich with aquarium salt (NOT table salt), you need to add 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of aquarium water. (Example: If treating a 10 gallon aquarium, add 30 teaspoons of salt.) Premix the solution in a container with some aquarium water, then add it to your aquarium. Do this 3 times, each time approximately 12 hours a part.
Vacuum the aquarium substrate or bare floor every day to remove the dead/dying parasites. Remember to treat any replaced water with salt. Maintain this treatment for at least 7 days to be sure the Ich has died off completely.
Written by Leah C.
Resources: Personal experience and study of Ich; image from cichlidresearch.com; aquamaniacs.net.
Image of Severe Ich
